Aug 27, 2014

How to Choose a Horse Boarding Facility

If you have horses, chances are that at one time or another you'll want to choose a boarding stable for your friends.  Here is my process to decide and some questions I like to ask. 


  1. Make a list of priorities for yourself.  Give them an importance of 1-3.  For example, I rate hay quality as a 3 and tidiness of the facility as a 1 as long as stalls and buckets are clean.
  2. Put those items on a spreadsheet or piece of paper.
  3. Call places or look at them online and write down the results for each of your priorities
  4. Rate the answers from 1-5 with 1 being low and 5 being high
  5. When you're done, multiply the importance by the answer for each stable and add those values up for a total score.  In the example below, stable A is the better choice because it has a higher total score.
Example for Stable A:
     Question     Importance     Score     Total
       1) Hay            3                     5          15
       2) Turnout      2                     2           4
       3) Arenas       1                      3           3
     TOTAL                                                22


Example for Stable B:
     Question     Importance     Score     Total
       1) Hay            3                     1           3
       2) Turnout      2                     5          10
       3) Arenas       1                      5           5
     TOTAL                                                18


I have some questions you can ask the stable owner under each item with what I think is the right answer.  The questions are open ended so you don't lead them to give you the correct answer.



1) Hay

What kind of hay do you have?  Grass hay is best.  Listen for the person's level of enthusiasm for choosing hay.  If the person buying hay is passionate about getting the right hay for horses, chances are that you will get good hay. 


Where do you get your hay?  In order to be consistent , it should be from the same supplier all year.  I had one barn owner that would grow his own hay, but sell the best hay to the neighbors and supplement the supply in late winter with the cheapest hay he could buy from anyone.  Frowney face for that practice because it gave my horse diarrhea and weight loss.


How is your hay stored?  It should be stored away from water coming from above and below.  Under a roof and on palates or a raised floor is best.


2) Water
How are horses watered in the stall?  Automatic waterers are best, but clean buckets filled at least twice a day for is also just fine.  Buckets and waterers should be cleaned at least a couple times a week.


Do you do a barn check at night?  The answer should be yes, and water buckets are refilled.  Some awesome barns even give hay during the night check.


3) Grain
What kind of grain do you provide?  Usually it's a mix of oats and pelleted high fiber feed.  Beware feeding too much sweet feed.  Sweet feed is high in sugar and can cause problems for some horses.  If you win the jackpot, it's a pelleted high fiber feed.  If the hay is good enough and fed in enough quantity, you may not need grain.  Don't forget you can provide your own grain.  I had an older mare on part barn grain, part equine senior that did great.  Grain isn't usually very high on my list of priorities, since I prefer to feed mostly hay but it may be high on yours.


4) Turnout
Tell me about your turn out?  This is an open ended question that will let you know the owner or manager's philosophy.  Remember when you evaluate this that horses are not humans.  They don't particularly like being confined to a stall.  They don't need alone time.  They need to be part of a social group of horses.  Stalls can be good for us when we go to get our horses in the evening, or to protect our horses during times of the year that there is severe weather, and to give our horses a place to eat the correct amount of grain per day (no stealing from neighbors or getting stolen from).


How many days a week are horses turned out? 7 days is the right answer


How many hours a day are horses turned out? As many as possible is a good answer.  The only times it makes sense to turn out less is if it's too hot or too cold out and the horses are miserable because of the weather.


Is shelter available in the turn out?  Yes is a good answer.  Think about the times during the year that it's a little too hot, too cold and windy or pouring cold rain.  Your horse is going to want a place to be safe during those times.  Make sure there is enough room for all the horses in the shelter.


Is water available in the turn out?  Yes is the right answer.  Look at it to make sure it's fresh and clean.  It shouldn't be brown or slimy.


Are they turned out together or individually? Together is the best answer.  Horses need a social group.  If not together, next to each other is a sad but acceptable option.  If your horse is out with other horses, he'll get some bumps sometimes but in exchange he'll have something to do all day while he socializes with his herd.


Are mares and geldings together or separate?  Again, horses are not people.  The answer is that it doesn't really matter.  Geldings aren't interested in sexual activity in most cases.  Mares and geldings enjoy being in a mixed group.  Some people are convinced that they should be separated and it isn't a big deal, but don't be put off if they are together.  It's best if they're grouped by dominance instead of by sex.  If there is a more dominant and a less dominant herd, there is less of a disparity between the top and bottom horse so the bottom horse gets beat up less.


5) Pasture
Is it pasture or dry lot turn out?  You can ask or just observe this one.  Pasture is best, but be careful of some people who call a dry lot 'pasture'.  If the grass isn't cared for and there are significant bare spots, it's a dry lot.  Horses won't get much nutrition or entertainment out of the grass if it's not there.  Dry lot can be just fine, but don't advertise it as pasture.


Do you mow weeds?  Yes is a good answer but not mandatory.  Horses eat the grass and not the weeds.  If not mowed, over time the weeds can take over.  Some may be poisonous.  Most barn owners are aware of poisonous weeds, but some aren't.


Do you rotate pasture? Jackpot if the answer is yes.  Pasture rotation helps provide more healthy grass for horses and reduces parasites a little.


6) Stalls 
How does the barn smell?  If it smells bad, walk away.  The barn isn't clean.  Imagine how bad it will smell when it's closed up in the winter or it's 95 degrees outside.  Imagine your poor horse forced to stand in that and breathe it in for hours at a time.  Sad.


How do the stalls look?  Are there wet spots?  Is there old poop?  Are there safety hazards like metal bits sticking out or loose stall parts?  Try to look past the aesthetics of the stalls.  I've seen dangerous dirty barns with beautiful stalls and excellent barns with older less attractive stalls.  Make sure the stalls are at least 10X10, 12X12 is better and think about the light your horse will get if he or she is confined during the day.  No horse wants to be locked up in a dark cave every day.


Are the water buckets clean?  Don't say anything, just check in a few stalls.


7) Bad weather


What do you do in the case of extreme weather?  Ideally, horses are brought in if it's way too hot or cold for them to be comfortable outside.  The range really depends on what horses are used to.  In more extreme areas, 95 to -20 is a good range.  Remember, in the winter where it's cold horses grow a good winter coat.  In less extreme areas 95 to 0 is a good range.  Horses evolved in colder climates.  They have great adaptations for the cold, but not as much for the hot.


8) Amenities for you


There is a reason this is last.  Don't forget that your horse lives at the barn 24/7.  You visit between 4 and 6 hours a week.  That being said, it's not worthwhile to have a horse if you can't pursue the activities of your choice.


Is there an indoor arena?  Does the weather dictate that you need one?  Are there times during the year that it's too hot/cold/rainy?  What is the footing?  Is it too shallow or too deep for your sport?  Unless you're doing some serious sliding stops, 6" of footing is too deep.  It will cause damage to your horse's joints.


Is there an outdoor arena? Is it kept clean of equipment?  Is it cared for?


How many people are using the arena during the times you can be at the barn?  The best answer depends on you.  Do you thrive on riding with a group or people or do you get peace from riding alone?


How often is the arena groomed?  More than once a week is nice.  Once a day is ideal.
Is the arena watered when it's dry?  Yes is a good answer.  It's bad for you and your horse to be breathing in dust.  Especially in the winter when the arena is closed up.  Bonus points if the owner has a plan for dust when it's below freezing.  The arena additives to keep dust down actually work.


I hope this helps you find the right boarding barn for you and your horse. 


Cheers,


RGG




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Dec 2, 2012

How to Identify and Choose Hay for Horses

Hay can be a mystery if you're not used to buying it.  Even if you've been buying it for years, you may want more detail on the different types.  Here's a quick overview of how to choose and identify different types of hay for your horse.

Look for:
  • Green color
  • Thin soft stems
  • Good smell - it should smell sweet, not dusty and dirty
Avoid:
  • Mold.  Here is a good article with a picture of mold.
  • Weeds.  Anything that isn't hay.  If it doesn't look like grass or alfalfa it isn't.  I have one producer that likes to try and sneak in bales of weeds from the edge of the field with the hay delivery each year and claim that it's just fine.  I'll try to get a picture next time I see it.
  • Brown color.  This means the hay has been left out in the sun and rain and has lost a great deal of it's nutrients.  It may be green on the inside, but the rain has coursed through it and taken nutrients away in the process.
  • Too heavy.  If you know about what a bale should weigh and the ones you're looking at are much heaver, the hay may be too moist and prone to mold.
  • Seed heads.  This is minor, but once a grass has started to produce seeds it has lost some of it's nutrition value by producing the seeds.  Yes, the nutrition is in the seeds, but in a different form (sugars) that's not as good for horses.  It's not a deal breaker, but seed heads means it was harvested too late.
Types of Hay:

Local Grass Hay
Grass Hay/Local Hay
This is a term people use for a variety of hay grown locally.  Most of the time this is a thin leaved grass hay.  The stems are soft.  It's lower in nutrition value per pound than something like Timothy Hay hay but has more fiber.  It's a great foundation for a healthy horse diet.  They can eat plenty and not get fat.  It has the nutrients they need.  It keeps them happy because they can munch on it longer if they get more.  Because it's local, it's usually less expensive than other types, but more expensive than weeds or low quality hay.

Timothy Hay with Seed Head Circled
Timothy Hay/ Orchard Grass Hay/ Eastern Oregon Hay
Technically these are different hays, but each is a leafy nutritious hay that's high in fiber.  The leaves are wide and the stems are short and soft.  It's a good foundation for a healthy horse diet.  The downside of this hay is that the easy keepers may get fat on it because it's a little more nutritionally dense than the local grass hay.  My horses preferred this to their regular local grass hay and a good grass/alfalfa mix in a taste test.   

I circled the seed head so you can compare to the slough hay below.

Oxbow has some good detailed information on the differences and nutrition value of some of these types of hay.  Where I live, Oxbow is cost prohibitive to buy for horses but it's great for pet rabbits and other small animals.

Grass Hay Alfalfa Mix
Alfalfa Leaves
Grass Hay Alfalfa Mix
This is a mix of grass hay and alfalfa.  Sometimes it looks just like grass hay.  You can identify the alfalfa by looking for tiny leaves on some of the stems.  Horses love this, but it's high calorie and the protein content in the alfalfa may be too much for older horses, horses with sensitive digestion or certain diseases.  Again, easy keepers may get fat on this.  Go with a grass hay if you can.

Pure Alfalfa
This isn't good for horses.  Cows can digest the high levels of protein in alfalfa, but horses have a hard time with it. You can identify it because there are no long grassy leaves in the bale.  It's usually greener than grass hay.  I will add a picture when I can.

How to identify Slough Hay
Slough Hay
It looks like good hay, right?  This isn't really hay, but someone may try to sell it to you as such.  It's reed canary grass that grows on the edge of wetlands.  Horses don't like it and if they don't like it, they won't eat it unless they're very hungry.  It looks like good leafy hay, but there are some subtle differences you can use to identify it.  The leaves are long and wide and the stems are long, golden and stiff.  The easiest to spot difference is that the seed heads are branched instead of single stemmed like you see in the Timothy hay picture.

Weeds
Weeds
Also not hay.  Don't accept this if someone tries to sell it to you or feed it to your horse.  Almost all hay will have a few weeds in it, but if each bale contains a significant number, reject it.

Nov 7, 2012

How to Ship Your Horse Long Distance

If you're new to shipping your horse long distance, it can be daunting to think about. Here are some simple steps you can follow that I put together from personal experience, asking experienced show people and asking my local vet. 

1) Pick a shipper

Ask your horse contacts for recommendations. Call or email those shippers and ask if they're going your way when you want to go. If they are, check out their website to see what kind of trailer they have and how they take care of your horse on the trip. Look for windows that open and close. Bonus points if they ask you to provide some hay that your horse is used to for the trip. Ask them how often they stop and let the horse out. See if you can find reviews on Google, Yelp or any other site by searching for the shipper's name and the word review.

 2) Get your paperwork together

  • Coggins - You'll need negative/good coggins test results that are within the last 6 months or year depending on the state. 
  • CVI - You'll most likely a health certificate (Certificate of Veterinary Inspection). The vet will need to inspect your horse within a month of writing up the certificate. The state will probably want the certificate written within 30 days of the arrival date. 
  • Permit - You may need a permit. Usually that entails having your vet call someone at the state you're delivering the horse to. 
  • Brand Inspection - You may need a brand inspection. 

Start here to find your specific state regulations for each of the above.

3) Get your horse ready

Make sure you start any feed changes at least two weeks before shipping. During shipping you'll want to feed your horse grass hay without alfalfa and no grain. Get any vaccinations at least two weeks before the shipping date to give your horse plenty of time to recover. You may want to give your horse some mineral oil the day before shipping to keep the gut moving and prevent colic. If your horse is difficult to get in the trailer practice beforehand or have a pen ready that you can put the horse in and back the trailer up to so the shipper can get your horse in.

4) Blanketing and Shipping Boots

It's better for a horse be too cold than too hot on a trip. They'll be using their muscles constantly during the trip to keep balanced and that generates heat. Good shippers will monitor the temperature of the trailer and open and close the windows as appropriate to keep horses comfortable. Unless your horse is used to shipping boots, don't use them. If your horse kicks at the boots during the trip or if the boots slip down they can cause more harm than good.

5) Get your contact information together

Touch base with your shipper and the person in charge at the other end of the trip a few days before the pickup to make sure there are no changes. Make sure you tell the shipper and the person at the other end if you need anything like a blanket sent along with your horse. Label those items. If you can't be at the destination, ask the person there to take a picture of your horse when he or she arrives to give you piece of mind that all four legs are still attached.

6) Stay available on your phone during the shipping.

Things should go smoothly, but if not you're there to help.

Good luck!

Nov 6, 2012

Bran Mash Recipe for Horses Traveling Long Distance

This recipe was given to me by my vet before I shipped my horse 1,700 miles.  You can have the vet come and oil your horse with a tube before the trip to keep things moving or you can make this tasty treat.

4 Cups Wheat Bran*
Add warm water until it's like soupy oatmeal
Let sit for 10 minutes

Add 3/4 to 1 cup mineral or corn oil**

Optional:
Add a couple hand-fulls of one the following for flavor
  • Senior feed OR
  • Carrots OR
  • Molasses (ok probably not hand-fulls, but 1/4 cup) OR
  • Honey
Add more water if the water has soaked up and it's not soupy anymore.

---------------
*
Beet pulp can replace the wheat bran if that's what you have on hand.  It's high in fiber and low in sugars.  Reference

**
Mineral oil can't be digested so it will pass through the entire digestive system thereby "greasing" the path all the way.  Reference

Vegetable or corn oil can be digested in the small intestine.  The oil won't pass through the entire digestive system, but will most likely produce looser stool if the horse is not used to that level of fat.  An added benefit is that it will help the horse keep weight on for the journey.  Reference