Dec 2, 2012

How to Identify and Choose Hay for Horses

Hay can be a mystery if you're not used to buying it.  Even if you've been buying it for years, you may want more detail on the different types.  Here's a quick overview of how to choose and identify different types of hay for your horse.

Look for:
  • Green color
  • Thin soft stems
  • Good smell - it should smell sweet, not dusty and dirty
Avoid:
  • Mold.  Here is a good article with a picture of mold.
  • Weeds.  Anything that isn't hay.  If it doesn't look like grass or alfalfa it isn't.  I have one producer that likes to try and sneak in bales of weeds from the edge of the field with the hay delivery each year and claim that it's just fine.  I'll try to get a picture next time I see it.
  • Brown color.  This means the hay has been left out in the sun and rain and has lost a great deal of it's nutrients.  It may be green on the inside, but the rain has coursed through it and taken nutrients away in the process.
  • Too heavy.  If you know about what a bale should weigh and the ones you're looking at are much heaver, the hay may be too moist and prone to mold.
  • Seed heads.  This is minor, but once a grass has started to produce seeds it has lost some of it's nutrition value by producing the seeds.  Yes, the nutrition is in the seeds, but in a different form (sugars) that's not as good for horses.  It's not a deal breaker, but seed heads means it was harvested too late.
Types of Hay:

Local Grass Hay
Grass Hay/Local Hay
This is a term people use for a variety of hay grown locally.  Most of the time this is a thin leaved grass hay.  The stems are soft.  It's lower in nutrition value per pound than something like Timothy Hay hay but has more fiber.  It's a great foundation for a healthy horse diet.  They can eat plenty and not get fat.  It has the nutrients they need.  It keeps them happy because they can munch on it longer if they get more.  Because it's local, it's usually less expensive than other types, but more expensive than weeds or low quality hay.

Timothy Hay with Seed Head Circled
Timothy Hay/ Orchard Grass Hay/ Eastern Oregon Hay
Technically these are different hays, but each is a leafy nutritious hay that's high in fiber.  The leaves are wide and the stems are short and soft.  It's a good foundation for a healthy horse diet.  The downside of this hay is that the easy keepers may get fat on it because it's a little more nutritionally dense than the local grass hay.  My horses preferred this to their regular local grass hay and a good grass/alfalfa mix in a taste test.   

I circled the seed head so you can compare to the slough hay below.

Oxbow has some good detailed information on the differences and nutrition value of some of these types of hay.  Where I live, Oxbow is cost prohibitive to buy for horses but it's great for pet rabbits and other small animals.

Grass Hay Alfalfa Mix
Alfalfa Leaves
Grass Hay Alfalfa Mix
This is a mix of grass hay and alfalfa.  Sometimes it looks just like grass hay.  You can identify the alfalfa by looking for tiny leaves on some of the stems.  Horses love this, but it's high calorie and the protein content in the alfalfa may be too much for older horses, horses with sensitive digestion or certain diseases.  Again, easy keepers may get fat on this.  Go with a grass hay if you can.

Pure Alfalfa
This isn't good for horses.  Cows can digest the high levels of protein in alfalfa, but horses have a hard time with it. You can identify it because there are no long grassy leaves in the bale.  It's usually greener than grass hay.  I will add a picture when I can.

How to identify Slough Hay
Slough Hay
It looks like good hay, right?  This isn't really hay, but someone may try to sell it to you as such.  It's reed canary grass that grows on the edge of wetlands.  Horses don't like it and if they don't like it, they won't eat it unless they're very hungry.  It looks like good leafy hay, but there are some subtle differences you can use to identify it.  The leaves are long and wide and the stems are long, golden and stiff.  The easiest to spot difference is that the seed heads are branched instead of single stemmed like you see in the Timothy hay picture.

Weeds
Weeds
Also not hay.  Don't accept this if someone tries to sell it to you or feed it to your horse.  Almost all hay will have a few weeds in it, but if each bale contains a significant number, reject it.

Nov 7, 2012

How to Ship Your Horse Long Distance

If you're new to shipping your horse long distance, it can be daunting to think about. Here are some simple steps you can follow that I put together from personal experience, asking experienced show people and asking my local vet. 

1) Pick a shipper

Ask your horse contacts for recommendations. Call or email those shippers and ask if they're going your way when you want to go. If they are, check out their website to see what kind of trailer they have and how they take care of your horse on the trip. Look for windows that open and close. Bonus points if they ask you to provide some hay that your horse is used to for the trip. Ask them how often they stop and let the horse out. See if you can find reviews on Google, Yelp or any other site by searching for the shipper's name and the word review.

 2) Get your paperwork together

  • Coggins - You'll need negative/good coggins test results that are within the last 6 months or year depending on the state. 
  • CVI - You'll most likely a health certificate (Certificate of Veterinary Inspection). The vet will need to inspect your horse within a month of writing up the certificate. The state will probably want the certificate written within 30 days of the arrival date. 
  • Permit - You may need a permit. Usually that entails having your vet call someone at the state you're delivering the horse to. 
  • Brand Inspection - You may need a brand inspection. 

Start here to find your specific state regulations for each of the above.

3) Get your horse ready

Make sure you start any feed changes at least two weeks before shipping. During shipping you'll want to feed your horse grass hay without alfalfa and no grain. Get any vaccinations at least two weeks before the shipping date to give your horse plenty of time to recover. You may want to give your horse some mineral oil the day before shipping to keep the gut moving and prevent colic. If your horse is difficult to get in the trailer practice beforehand or have a pen ready that you can put the horse in and back the trailer up to so the shipper can get your horse in.

4) Blanketing and Shipping Boots

It's better for a horse be too cold than too hot on a trip. They'll be using their muscles constantly during the trip to keep balanced and that generates heat. Good shippers will monitor the temperature of the trailer and open and close the windows as appropriate to keep horses comfortable. Unless your horse is used to shipping boots, don't use them. If your horse kicks at the boots during the trip or if the boots slip down they can cause more harm than good.

5) Get your contact information together

Touch base with your shipper and the person in charge at the other end of the trip a few days before the pickup to make sure there are no changes. Make sure you tell the shipper and the person at the other end if you need anything like a blanket sent along with your horse. Label those items. If you can't be at the destination, ask the person there to take a picture of your horse when he or she arrives to give you piece of mind that all four legs are still attached.

6) Stay available on your phone during the shipping.

Things should go smoothly, but if not you're there to help.

Good luck!

Nov 6, 2012

Bran Mash Recipe for Horses Traveling Long Distance

This recipe was given to me by my vet before I shipped my horse 1,700 miles.  You can have the vet come and oil your horse with a tube before the trip to keep things moving or you can make this tasty treat.

4 Cups Wheat Bran*
Add warm water until it's like soupy oatmeal
Let sit for 10 minutes

Add 3/4 to 1 cup mineral or corn oil**

Optional:
Add a couple hand-fulls of one the following for flavor
  • Senior feed OR
  • Carrots OR
  • Molasses (ok probably not hand-fulls, but 1/4 cup) OR
  • Honey
Add more water if the water has soaked up and it's not soupy anymore.

---------------
*
Beet pulp can replace the wheat bran if that's what you have on hand.  It's high in fiber and low in sugars.  Reference

**
Mineral oil can't be digested so it will pass through the entire digestive system thereby "greasing" the path all the way.  Reference

Vegetable or corn oil can be digested in the small intestine.  The oil won't pass through the entire digestive system, but will most likely produce looser stool if the horse is not used to that level of fat.  An added benefit is that it will help the horse keep weight on for the journey.  Reference